Farewell To QLD

After the intensive ride to Brisbane, I was as ready as ever to get off the bike, and on the beer. I had contacted Kel, my friend that I met in Arno Bay, Port Kenny and Esperance. Kel was minding a beautiful luxury house for his brother in Redcliffe, just north of Brisbane. Kel invited me to come and stay at this house for a night or two. It was a strange feeling to see Kel on the other side of Australia and we were both very happy to see each other. The weather was superb so we made the most of it by swinging past the pub for a few beers in the sun.

The house we stayed at was beautiful and well stocked with delicious food and drink. We explored the pantries like excited little boys finding sweets, seafood and expensive steaks to relieve our (my) insatiable hunger. There was also a fully stocked bar to be utilized. 

The next day I unloaded my bike and Kel brought out his racer for a ride. Kel knew the cycle paths very well and I thoroughly enjoyed following him around the coastal cycle routes under the blazing sun. We rode for some time and I had the feeling that Kel was testing my fitness from time to time. 

We spent the second night sitting up chatting into the late hours of the night. Unfortunately I didn't make it to bed until 2am, which made it rather difficult to rise for my early 4am start to attempt the ride through Brisbane city. But none-the-less I found myself riding bleary-eyed through the dark, early hours of the morning to beat the building traffic. 

Riding through Brisbane was slow and laborious, taking far longer then expected to cross. I enjoyed the beautiful view crossing the Story Bridge chased by angry motorists rushing to start their work days. 

From here it was a very long, sleepy ride all the way (more then 150km's) to the Gold Coast. The ride encompassed a difficult climb up Tambourine Mountain, offering stunning views over the Gold Coast from the top. 

When I finally arrived on the Gold Coast just after dark, my eyes were red, my legs were sore and my body odor was radiating after long hours of climbing. Thankfully I was to live in luxury for another night! Kate, a close family friend living in a high-rise building had invited me to stay, and had dinner waiting upon my arrival. So after a cold shower and a tasty Thai meal, I relished the opportunity to relax with Kate for a chat and a drink, before well and truly hitting the hay.
This was my last full day riding in Queensland, and I was excited to be entering the next leg of my journey. What did New South Whales have in store for me?

                                                                                  Turtle Head

                                                                               Green Tree Frog

                                                                           A wet weather camp

                                                                            Mother of all monsters: Echidna

                                                                                  Dirt Track Riding

A Rainy Start

It took me two weeks and two days to reach Brisbane from Cairns - a journey covering two thousand km's.
Unfortunately I uncovered a strong negative correlation between increased distance per day, and meeting less people along the way - resulting in far less adventures. Sleeping in the bush every night also stunted my social activities.
None the less I was flying along in order to arrive home within budget. My biggest issue was water falling from the east coast sky. Day in day out I could expect at least some small showers, if not a full day of cold, miserable, soaked to the bone riding. I looked frantically for shelters to pitch my tent under - a process that inevitably slowed me down significantly. My skin would be wrinkly from hours in the rain, my feet numb from waterlogged shoes, and inevitably some water would sneak its way into my bags to wet my prized possessions. My camera stopped working, my internet dongle went for a swim and even my precious odometer threw the towel in. Looking into the blank screen of my odometer felt like looking into the empty eyes of deceased friend. I didn't realize just how often I look at that small screen, relying on it for information of my daily efforts. How far had I ridden? How fast was I traveling? What was my average speed?
As all this rain plummeted downwards, so did my spirits. I tried not to let it bug me but eventually it drove me wild with frustration.
On one particular day when the rain seemed to climax and everything I owned (including my tent and sleeping gear) was soaking wet, I made the decision to make an exception to my rule, and check into a motel room. I needed a heater to dry my belongings and dry out my soaking morale. So I stopped in the tiny town of Marlborough and coughed up the $50 for a single room. Luckily the lady working there took sympathy of my blue lips and sad frown and bumped my booking up to a double room with an en suite.
The room was a dingy small building with a tin roof that echoed loudly under the thundering rain. I liked the sound. It smelt musty, the television didn't work and the windows whistled in the wind. However, I had a roof over my head, a small heater and a comfy bed. I got to work drying out my gear carefully and charged my computer in order to watch a film to whiz me away to another world. The net result was positive. I left in the morning refreshed, dry, happy and determined. To add to this, the downpour from the night seemed to leave nothing for the morning - the sun was even shining!    

         

The East Coast Cruize

My mind was set. I knew what I wanted to do and how I was going to do it. When I arrived back at Cairns it was time to make my move. I felt cool, calm and collected with a strong dash of determination. Funds were dangerously low, the rainy season was fast approaching and my bum was soft again from days off the bike. Things were going to be tough, but I was ready to grit my teeth and push on down busy highways and hilly terrain.
There was a strong necessity for sacrifice, and this materialized in the form of bush camping Every. Night. From. Now. On. This may sound wimpy, but camping out in the sticks on Australia's busiest coast was going to take some dedication and discipline. It meant that showering was out the window. As was electricity for charging my computer, camera etc. It also meant that I would never know where I was headed for the night. Riding through open farm crops hoping wildly that trees would soon take over to provide some shelter to lay my weary head. If the trees didn't appear on the horizon, where would I sleep? If it got too late and I found myself riding through busy suburbia, how would I find a suitable place to camp in the black of the night?
Well, after a great deal of anxiety about sleeping under the stars from now on, my first night was spent inside a house in a nice warm bed. Hardcore! After a long days cycling I pitched my tent on the side of the road surrounded by banana plantations. The sun had gone down and I was busying myself cooking rice with tuna. Quite suddenly a quad motorbike came roaring past not far from my tent. The two passengers doubled back to see what I was up to. When they slid off the seat, I noticed very quickly that they were extremely intoxicated. Both male and female were holding cans of rum, swaying on the spot slurring their speech a great deal. I didn't catch either name, but this couple were the banana farm owners surrounding me. I was invited to come to their house to have a hot meal, a shower and a bed. I felt a little apprehensive about staying with two drunk people that lived in a matrix of tall banana plants. To make matters more uncomfortable, they made regular 'jokes' about the film Wolf Creek, which sent shivers down my spine. However, I was stinky and hungry and keen for another adventure. So I followed the motorbike through the darkness around endless winding dirt roads - quite like a maze. How would I find my way back out in the morning? Oh well, I'll have to cross that bridge when I come to it.
The night turned out to be far less remarkable then I had hoped. When we arrived I was chased by a vicious pitbull 'fluffy'. It was on a long chain but for that split second when I didn't know how long the chain was, I just froze on the spot and panicked. There were wild pigs chained to a heavy machine in the garden, which were being fattened up for tucker. They were not happy to see me. I was treated to a horrible bowl of half cooked sausage stew, and promptly jumped in the shower. When I came back out the pair of these drunken characters were fast asleep (past out) on the couch. Fantastic. So I snooped around the house in order to find the spare bedroom, lay my head on a rock hard mattress, and drifted away. What a start to my East Coast adventure.          

                                                                         Well... Dad???

                                                                   Yellow-breasted Sunbird

                                                                           Evil eyes

Sydney - Take One

A holiday from a holiday, sounds too good to be true! I had received a call from my Dad when I was arriving in Chillagoe - "You had better be in Cairns by the 16th of October to catch a flight into Sydney". It was a statement not a question, but obviously I would not protest! My relatives from Germany were arriving in Sydney for a short three days and the rest of my relatives (living in Aus) were flying in to meet them. It would have been a disappointment to miss a rare family reunion and my amazing father had made sure that I would be included. What is more, he didn't tell anybody that I would be joining them, so I was somewhat of a surprise - particularly for my immediate family.

So very early on a warm starry morning I stowed my bike in the shed of a friendly caravan park and with a backpack on my back, made my way on foot towards the airport. I walked through the darkness for hours, but I had allowed plenty of time to arrive and catch my flight without rushing. Every process ran like clock-work, and I was soon walking through the busy streets of Sydney. I was relieved to find that the weather was warm and sunny, and it was strange to feel the dry air on my skin after so long.
According to dad's updates, my relatives were dining at a Bavarian restaurant. So showered but perhaps a little scruffy, I made my way through the hustle and bustle. I was very excited to surprise everybody, and had played the potential scene in my mind time and time again.
When I walked in my sister Michaela was the first to see me. She let out a loud scream which was soon echoed by my other sister Stacey. I was showered with cuddles and kisses and it was just fantastic to see my stunned mother, and shake hands with the man who made it all happen. My Oma and Opa were very shocked to see me, and I was the happiest boy in the world to see them. My aunt and uncle were there also and I was thrilled to see them, having kept in close contact throughout the trip thus far.

When my German relatives arrived the party was complete, and we spent the next few days eating delicious food, walking the streets of Sydney and enjoying the buzzing atmosphere created by all the wonderful people.
The last day was spent with my immediate family, and it meant the world to me mucking around with everybody walking, talking eating and laughing. I even had the chance to nick off with dad to the pub for a few quiet beers. It was going to be hard to say goodbye to everybody once more to continue my cycling trip. But, all good things must come to an end, and before I knew it I was cuddling mum goodbye and flying back north to tackle the east coast.
I would like to take the time here to say an incredibly big thank you to my Dad - the altruistic man who inspires with generosity and cheerfulness. Dad, you're a great man, thanks for everything.

The east coast was going to be busy and expensive, and my plan was to push those peddles harder then ever in an effort to arrive in one piece with a dollar still in my pocket. Cyclist - start your engine!

                                                                             The full family shot

                                                               Enjoying a beer with my beautiful sisters

                                                                                  What a view!

                                                                             Family shot

Cape Tribulation - Cairns

As I rode out of Cape Trib, I was finally faced with the rain I had been expecting. It came driving down in thick sheets and I had to cover my mouth and nose (as explained earlier) in an attempt to breath. However, the rain was relatively short lived and I emerged soon on the other side of the gloomy clouds. The hills persisted for a short while (just for the morning) finally giving way to beautiful agricultural land. The landscape was incredibly green and cane sugar was growing rampant. Green paddocks with grazing cattle were dotted here and there and it was great to see white herons following the cows around like close buddies.
When I arrived in Port Douglas I checked into the local caravan park/backpackers 'Dougies'. Dougies had been recommended to me on many occasions.
When I arrived on a Friday afternoon I set up my tent where I was told to... right in the middle of the main path. Apparently they were full and so stuck me in any spot that I would fit. I didn't feel overly comfortable with the situation. This was the first time (in what felt like a very long time) that I was surrounded by masses of people again. I was so used to setting up camp beside a river with only a croc or two for company. Suddenly I was in party central being fussed over by flocks of bored backpackers. After all, that night was 'dress as something beginning with 's' night', and I didn't have an outfit! But as they fussed about my attire for the evening, all I could think about was the safety of my tent and belongings.
So I joined in the fun and games for a few hours (and a cask of goon) and when nobody was looking I crept back into my tent without a word.
That night I took ALL of my belongings with me into my tent which was quite a squeeze (bike wheels, cooking gear, clothes, camera etc.) and endured drunk people shaking my tent begging me to come back and party. I was the 'Aussie bearded cyclist guy'. I just wanted to leave.
The music and festivities continued into the early hours of the morning leaving me feeling spritely for a long day ahead (not!!!)
The next day was a stunning ride along the coast into the beautiful city of Cairns.
So there I was - after more then a thousand km's of super rural dirt roads - standing in a city with my bike. There were bike shops, fast food, supermarkets, people and water galore.
The next three days were spent looking around, cleaning up, buying a new jumper and shirt and organizing my bike storage for my upcoming flight. Fight? Flight you ask? Well you had better read the next blog to find out more...

                                                                            Barking Gecko

                                                                           Mangrove Boardwalk

                                                                                   Fiddler Crab

                                                                                Cairns at night

Cape Tribulation

As I rode through the thick rainforest I was shocked by the sudden appearance of a town! Cape Tribulation is surrounded by the Daintree, and may I say one of the nicest towns I have ever visited.

I checked into P.K Jungle Resort which had been recommended to me on many occasions. After setting up camp I walked down to the beautiful beach to have a refreshing swim. The water was warm and welcoming, and the view from the water looking back at the forest was amazing. 

That night I had a few beers with a very rough group of men who insisted on smoking in the bar, and scared the girls half to death with some sleazy pick-up lines.

They were soon kicked out and I was free to hit the hay.

The next morning I was awake early ready to climb Mt Sorrow. The walk is very demanding and climbs steadily to over 800m's. 

As I started my morning walk I was approached by a group of young locals who were shocked that I had not 'registered' my walk  for safety purposes (like a sign in sign out form). As it happened they were also embarking on the walk, and ordered me to join them. So we walked through the thick growth until late afternoon. One young Canadian guy named Blane took charge to lead us up and I was surprised by the fast pace that he set. However, after a few hours it was obvious that he was struggling and my bicycle fitness kicked in to shame him. Don't mess with these legs mate, they know no bounds...

The scenery was incredible and the view from the top was heart stopping. At one stage I was walking along when a big Lace Monitor (Australia's 2nd biggest lizard) mistook me for a tree and ran up my leg leaving little puncture marks where the long claws had griped me. We looked at each other for a split second of confusion before it doubled back and disappeared into the greenery without so much as an apology.  

When we finally arrived back at the bottom of the track we hopped into a car and headed to a cool, crystal clear water hole. There was a fun rope-swing to bomb into the oasis and I had my sexy tan lines on display for the girls. I have to say here that the afternoon visiting a total of three different water holes was nothing short of magic. They were all hidden away from the tourist route and I was very lucky to have met these locals to dive a little deeper into the beauty of the Daintree. 

                                                                             Strange tree with fruit on trunk

                                                                                 The usual

                                                                               View from Mt Sorrow

                                                                              Some of the team

                                                                                   Bamboo

                                                                                A water hole

                                                                             Rainbow Lorikeet

Beauty of the Daintree

The Daintree Rainforest is the oldest forest in the world. The passing of centuries has allowed biological systems to become complex and incredibly diverse. The lush green trees, cool clear streams, vibrant butterflies, striking birds and loud, active nights create an unforgettable experience for any lucky enough to pass through.

It was under a bright blue sky that I rode down the Bloomfield track through lush rainforest of the Daintree.

My neck ached from hours of looking up into the tree canopy in search of tree-snakes, tree-kangaroos and tropical birds. The track itself was hard-packed dirt with the occasional shallow creek-crossing winding its way through the steep hills of the Great Diving Range. 

To be honest I didn't ride very far for the duration of the forest. The Bloomfield track only covers some 30km's of road, but the forest covers much more. In order to explore the forest a little more thoroughly I only covered some 15km's each day for four days. Including a rest day I was in the forest for five days - and I loved every minute of it.

It's worth noting here that being a 'rain'forest, one would expect a rainy day or two, if only a shower, but I was fortunate enough to experience lovely warm, dry weather until I departed. I have to say that as I rode my bike out of the national park on the my last day, I literally had to cover my mouth and nose as the rain came down so thick that I could not breath. I was drowning on my bike.

The forest came to life at night, and I had to become nocturnal in order to join in the fun. It was for this reason that I spent my days sleeping, riding late and resting. The hills of the Bloomfield are by far the steepest I have ever seen. Anywhere. Ever. EVER. The mountain ranges that I had to cross were at an incredible 30% angle, and I was forced to push my bike for the first time on the trip since the start. The immense humidity, blazing sun and gruelling pushing turned my body into a leaking mess.The trail of water droplets that had fallen from my body was clearly visible in the dirt behind me like a badly leaking car. Every time I stopped to catch my breath I formed a puddle on the ground within seconds. I had never sweated this way before, and it was hard work trying to keep hydrated. When I came across streams I just jumped in fully clothed (they were soaking anyway) to refresh my shrivelling body. I had to rip may leeches from my skin as a result. 

As I wiped the sweat from my eyes at the top of each rise I was instantly rewarded for my effort. The air was fresh, the birds sang and the views were to die for. Looking over the crest at the downhill beyond was daunting as the brakes on my bike screamed under the pressure to slow my bike to a safe speed - some 4km's/hour. If a car came the other way and I was going too fast it would all be over in one steep, slippery moment. 

I managed to find some truly stunning camp spots, both in the depths of the forest, and on the beach looking back into the gloom. 

Camping in the Daintree was perhaps the most magic experience of my life. Fireflies whizzed slowly through the air emitting radiant flashes of light through the darkness. I was able to catch them and look at their little bums light up in an effort to attract partners. Two chambers within their abdomens contain different chemicals which light up upon mixing producing almost pure light energy - 96% light and only 4% heat, compared with a house-hold bulb which produces 60% light and 40% heat. 

A saprotrophic fungi living within the small cavities in dead plant matter (such as dead tree stumps/branches) produced a faint glow in the darkness to attract insects which are responsible for spreading the spores. The effect was mind-blowing. A pitch-black forest buzzing with fireflies over a sea of glowing plant material. Had I crossed into the world of Avatar? 

When the darkness was complete and the animals began to call, it was time for me to take my torch and explore. I walked for hours each night in search of lizards, bats, insects and mammals. Over all I would say that I was largely unlucky with my findings. However I did find native giant rats (GIANT), possums, a beautiful Boyd's Forest Dragon, sleeping birds and some incredible insects.

The Daintree had exceeded my expectation and I was still to reach Cape Tribulation...

  

No Pain No Gain

From Chillagoe the ride into Cooktown was fantastic. There were mountain ranges to cross, and after thousands of km's of flat earth, I was happy to take the challenge.
Upon entering Mareeba, I visited the engineering mob to see if they could weld my bike. Not only did they weld it, but they gave me spare parts, good advise and didn't charge me a dime. They were amazing.
I stopped in a great camp spot just outside of the township of Mt Molloy when the rain came down. I hadn't seen rain for months, so this was an unwelcome addition to my trip. So I hid in my tent all day while the rain came flooding down.
When I finally reached Cooktown the rain was coming in brief showers.
I stayed at a caravan park with gorgeous views of Mt Cook and the surrounding rain forest. I spent the next two days walking down every track I could find looking for snakes and lizards - quite unsuccessfully. I did find some amazing creatures along the way however, including echidna's, lace monitors, a small-eyed snake, wallaby's, beautiful tropical insects etc. I stumbled across a hive of paper wasps which I decided to photograph. Big mistake. They carried on with their business while I stuck my camera in their faces, until one individual wasp stung me. Suddenly they all started stinging me and I had to run a long way down the road to lose them. Ouch!
The next destination that I wished to visit was the majestic and mysterious 'Black Mountain'. Black Mountain is a strange formation where huge black boulders are stacked on top of each other to form a tall mountain. There are spaces between the rocks and eerie noises and rumbles come from deep within. Black Mountain is the site of many human disappearances, and myth therefore surrounds the curious formation. It is against the law to climb Black Mountain, but it is also home to Australia's biggest snake - the Amethystine Python - so naturally I had to climb it in search of the snake.  
It was great fun scrambling up the mountain from boulder to boulder. I was very aware of the dangers and could understand why people have been hurt or gone missing. So there I was, climbing further up and up when suddenly... Ouch!!! What was that pain in my arm? It started as a dull stinging. Then the pain grew into a stabbing sensation. The pain then continued to escalate into a burning, stabbing, stinging mess. What had happened? I back-tracked to find the answer. I had brushed past the only living plant life on the rocks, which just happened to be a 'Gympie Gympie' tree, also known as a stinging tree. The toxins from this tree "deliver a cocktail of painful poisons that persist painfully for up to four months". This is what I read in an article later, and true to its word, I can still feel the dull stinging as I sit to write this weeks later. It was a doozy.
I couldn't sleep much over the next few nights as my arm swelled up and down painfully. But on the bright side, I was on the verge of the Bloomfield Track, the dirt road that snakes its way through the Daintree Rain Forest National Park, and I was extremely excited.

                                                                   Mountain climbing!

                                                                 Hidden camp spot

                                                                      Mt Cook in cloud

                                                                           Hiding Echidna

                                                                    Blue-winged Kookaburra    

                                                                View from Cooktown Lighthouse

                     
                                                                        Black Mountain

Chillagoe

Chillagoe was a surprisingly interesting area to spend a 'rest day'. The town itself was quaint and small, but bustling with the school holiday chaos.

I spent my first night at the caravan park in town but was driven out by a few pesky aboriginal locals. So I packed up early and moved to the 'Eco-lodge' where I could camp out in the beautiful bush scenery for a very cheap price (I would highly recommend this place for any travelers!). The owner was a great man and he gave me some invaluable information on where to go and what to do. 

I then packed my day with activities within the wild surroundings. 

I swam in some beautiful croc-free swimming holes, climbed some incredible rock formations and tried my hand at some solo cave exploring. 

The owner of the Eco lodge had drawn me a map of a huge, uncommercialised cave system unknown to most. The entrance was accessible only by a bush walk and was many km's out of town. This all sounded too enticing to resist! 

So I packed two torches and climbed down the slippery rocks into the black abyss below. I felt like a real explorer down in the cave by myself walking through giant rock chambers and extravagant halls. There were small cracks to squeeze through and a few tunnels to squirm through on my hands and knees. The blackness seemed to penetrate everything - even my torch struggled to light the way. Suddenly I panicked. Had I come from this passage or that passage? How far had I gone in? Where was I? The questions all came flooding in suddenly and reason seemed extinguished by the darkness. People had been harping on about safety the entire bike ride but here I was, alone and lost in a maze of tunnels deep down in the dark. The only living creatures were cockroaches, spiders and the occasional whoosh of a bat in flight. Before I viewed them with intrigue and wonder, now they were eerie and frightening.

I sat down in the darkness, turned off my torch and willed myself to gain reason. I just needed a systematic approach. So I picked up a rock and scratched markings into the walls of tunnels I had already tried until finally, FINALLY I saw the tunnel leading up into the dazzling sunlight. I was free and a valuable lesson was learnt - always bring a cut lunch and a cold beer when going caving, it could be some time before you come out. Right??

That night the Eco-Lodge played a movie on an open-air cinema screen, and it was amazing to relax on the still, warm night with a movie and a buzzing atmosphere.

On sun-set I climbed the highest rock I could see on the horizon, and enjoyed the stunning view. This was also the first time I had seen clouds in months. 

So now I was rested, and ready to make my move to the Daintree Rain-forest, which I was very excited about!

The Six Day Slog (days 4-6)

Day 4: Mitchell River - Lynd River, 133.33km's
Long day in the saddle. Rode from sun-up to sun-down.
Felt a little groggy in the morning. Slowed me down.
The road had some very rough stretches but improved in general, this section of road is seldom used.
I see some tall trees. Awesome.
The camp is nice, right on the river, which is flowing to my relief. I drink and drink and drink.
Lights out.
Day 5: Lynd River - Nowhere, 119km's
Start the day with a guilty sleep in - around 7.30.
Had a troubled day on the bike. Mentally draining, possibly due to lack of nutritious food.
After 57km's I stop to drink from the Walsh River, where I find a beautiful big sand monitor (Goanna).
Tough day for me, but the thought of food and drink tomorrow is keeping me strong.
Crappy camp spot on the side of the road. There was barely a car all day so I'm sure I won't have a problem tonight.
Lights out.
Day 6: Nowhere - Chillagoe, 69km's
Early rise.
Again, tough day. Road condition terrible due to heavy truck use hauling earth to Chillagoe.
The trucks came thick and fast and I was showered in heavy sheets of bull dust. I am feeling very very dirty.
Amazing feeling arriving in town, and I find a seat to have a cold drink and a chocolate bar.
It happens to be Grand Final day in the AFL so I visit the pub to watch the Swans beat the Hawks. I don't really care either way. Good excuse to have a cold beer.
Finally it's time to sleep and prepare for a rest day tomorrow.
What an adventure it's been.

Well there you have it, a basic outline of the toughest stretch of my journey.
I felt very pleased with how everything panned out, and also a little proud of myself after having dealt with some hairy moments.
It had been a real adventure to remember.