Ningaloo Reef

On the 4/6 I woke excitedly (although a touch late) for my big day exploring the amazing Ningaloo Reef by boat. I had booked a tour to utilise the experience and knowledge of locals who know the reef like their own back-yard. 

After a quick bite at the bakery I hurried over to the dive shop to be on the bus by 6.30am.

After a short ride over to the boat ramp a glass-bottomed boat taxied us out to our big, beautiful boat. First stop was a simple snorkel within the reef to allow the inexperienced to experience and the crew to judge our capabilities. The reef was full of colour and as I was first in I locked eyes with a nice white-tip reef-shark straight up. Great start to the day. We saw some monster sting-rays and fish of every colour. There was even a shy turtle lurking about around us. 

We climbed back to safety for some food and I climbed up to sit with the skipper as we ventured further south down the reef. From up high on the tuna-tower I watched in amazement as a mother Dugong played with her pup, cruising the waves with surprising speed. We had dolphins swimming in our wake and spotted a few unidentified shadows resembling larger, hungry sharks. 

Finally we received confirmation from our spotter-plane that a young female whale-shark had been spotted beyond the breaking reef. This was the call we were waiting for. So we turned tail to crash our way clumsily through the white-wash and out into the deep-blue on the other side.

After finding the shark there was no time wasted in positioning the boat to allow us to jump in and swim along side her. And what an experience! As you can see from the photographs (which were sent to my email from a fellow swimmer with an under-water camera) the whale-shark was just incredible. Only a small shark of 4-5m's, she was graceful in cruising the ocean, seemingly without a worry in the world. Whale-sharks are the largest fish in the ocean (all other whales being mammals) and can grow to some 18m's. But even this small specimen had us gawking in awe. We were joined by schools of barracuda over a metre long and even though we were swimming out in the open far from land, I felt safe and alive. She seemed to enjoy the attention and stayed with us for over an hour before plunging to the depths of the ocean and out of site.

We were all very cold back on the boat after the excitement and a lunch was served over the rising volume of chatter. We sat with our towels around us in amazement as a pod of hump-back whales swam with the boat, breaching in spectacular form in front of the stunning Cape Range. 

After a close look at a BIG tiger-shark and an anxious swim (not far enough away) it was time to call it a day. Being in the sun all day, in and out of the water with energy levels high had drained me and I was glad to set foot on terra-firma at last. 

After a few beers at the pub with two lovely girls Renee and Shannon (who had also been on the boat), I was ready for bed in preparation for an early start at work the following day. The day had been absolute magic, and I will remember it forever. 

                                                       Our beautiful female Whale-Shark

                                                                     Showing off

                                                     ... As she disappeared into the deep...

Exmouth

                                                                  Yardie Creek Gorge

                                                                      A prickly visitor

                                                               Black-footed Rock Wallaby

                                            Hump-Back Whales with a Cape Range back-drop

Exmouth

I stayed in Exmouth for almost one month. Easily obtaining the prestigious position of stock-man at the local service station allowed me to save some much needed funds while exploring a natural wonderland in peak season. The abundant bird life filled the skies and land with busy, noisy life. Beautiful flowers were in bloom, the Ningaloo Reef was being graced by whale-sharks, hump-back whales and manta-rays. Black-Footed Rock wallaby's foraged silently from high rocky ledges within hidden ruby-red gorges. Giant Goanna's, snakes and the mighty Red Kangaroo lay quietly unseen within the grassy scrub as passers drove by without noticing. The land and sea were brimming with life, and I found myself in amongst it all. 

However, in appreciation of the beauty of life, there also came some hurdles for me to deal with. First of all I had no home. My address became the post-office, my kitchen became the bakery, my shelter became a fast-falling tent and the location of my shelter was to swing between caravan parks, Cape Range National Park and the occasional night hidden in the scrub. It was an expensive and unsettled situation and I quickly became tired of  the commotion. 

Work was crap. I hated working out the back where I could not talk to anybody or show growth or initiative. I felt like I was 14 years old again working at KFC following procedures set by dead-end managers for drop-out, burger-flipping kids. I knew that working there was beneficial and that I should be thankful for the opportunity, but I couldn't help but feel that I was taking a step in the wrong direction. Slowly this feeling grew to bring my mood down. So after I had gained sufficient finance and my patience had grown thin enough, I took great pleasure in saying goodbye and stocking my last shelf. I was free once more.

However, during my stay I met many fantastic people and had some great experiences. I will detail a few of the memorable experiences over the next few blogs.

                                                       Mangrove Lungs or Pneumatophores

                                                       Vlamingh Head Lighthouse

                                                              A Shy Sand-Crab

Coral Bay - Exmouth

                                                                  AMAZING!!!

                                                      The Spinifex Termite Mounds

                                                                What a camp spot!

                                                                   Goanna Tracks

                                                                Sturts Desert Pea

I spent a pleasant day in Coral Bay snorkeling on the aquarium-like Ningaloo Reef. There were fish of every colour, squid, reef sharks and more. Although I must admit the water was a little too cold for me. I had tried looking for a job in person, and had made many unsuccessful calls to no avail, so it was time to move on.

After a very slow start to my 80km ride the next day, I finally launched myself into the strong headwinds. It was only 150 odd km's to Exmouth but the winds were really blowing and I decided to split it into two days. Luckily my friends Mark and Terry had left water bottles hiding in the bushes for me to find. They had attached small signs attached to the street signs informing me of the hidden location of the water. It was a small gesture but it really meant alot to me and brightened my day. A big thank you to Mark and Terry, you guys sure kept me laughing.

The scenery along this road was very simple, consisting of spinifex with the occasional bush dotted here and there. Giant termite mounds composed of vibrant red soils stood towering over the plains adding an attractive element to the landscape. 

The down-side to the spinifex plains was that the razor sharp blades made camping impossible and I found it very difficult to find a suitable camp-spot. Eventually I slipped through the fence onto a station property to sleep within a stock-pile site of crushed rock. I tried everywhere to find soft ground in which I could drive a peg in, but the ground  was like cement. After a few bent pegs I decided that my only option was to flatten the top of a rock-pile and camp on this lumpy vantage point. Indeed it was a strange place to sleep. 

The next morning I was up before the sun, and away in good time. With only 71 km's into Exmouth I was there before lunch.

I checked into a caravan park that night which was particularly close to the road. I was stressed that my gear might be pinched or damaged... and sadly my fears were later justified. I was already asleep that night tucked away in my tent when a young, drunk male jumped on me and my tent, resulting in some very bent poles and small tears in the material. Luckily this pole was already snapped and I had a new one arriving in the mail. None-the-less it gave me the fright of a life-time and I was quite ill-tempered. 

But there I was in Exmouth, and I was very motivated to find some work to make some much needed money.  

Blood Sweat and Beers

Osprey

                                             
                                    An orange peel representation of my discomfort in the saddle

'Twas around 8am when I started my journey towards the Minilya Bridge Roadhouse on Tuesday the 22/5. I had packed my tent in the caravan park ready for departure when I was approached by Benjamin and Horhay - my French friends - to say goodbye and good luck. Shortly after this my dutch friend Patrick with his two beautiful German travelling partners ventured over to say goodbye also. I visited the caravan of Owen and Bev to say thank you for their company and kind offerings, and finally the German couple (who had taken me out in their 4X4 truck) for many thanks. It was a very comforting feeling riding away having made some great friends to look out for on the road. So it was with great enthusiasm that I took to the road (after a 'decky's breakfast') to chew up 141km's of road.

The road was generally empty and I found it easy to ride without having to get off the bike in order to address distractions (photo's, travellers, flat tires etc). I had not eaten enough food for lunch however, and my stomach was twisting itself in knots for the last 40 odd km's. But never mind, the roadhouse had delicious meals just waiting to be eaten (I had two of these meals). 

I sat out the front of the roadhouse in the warm air upon sun-set to soak up the peace and relax my tired body. I was soon chatting to a young truck driver who offered me a few chilly beers. The air was still and the sunset lit up the sky over the Minilya River (which was dry). It was the perfect end to a hard, long day in the hot outback. In addition to my seemingly good luck I was able to camp at a rest stop not 500m down the road on the river. It was illegal to camp in the rest stop, but it was dark by the time I set up and I told the Roadhouse (who offered paid camping) that I would come in for breakfast if they didn't blab. Win win. 

I am very quickly learning the importance of a large breakfast: Big breaky = big day in good mind frame. Small/no breaky = horrible day for myself and those around me. 

Coral Bay was my next stop, and I had been very excited to arrive following 5 star reviews.

It was an incredibly windy day on the bike, and I was buffeted around the road like a pinball.  I was at the winds mercy for 101km's. 

I passed a big red sign stating that I was passing into the 'Tropic of Capricorn' which meant little to me so I took a mental note to google it later. Not very important. 

I arrived in Coral Bay around 4pm in a slightly irritated mood. It was expensive, windy and there was nowhere that I could sneak off to in search of a camp spot. None-the-less I checked into the caravan park and found that I was next to some really lovely people that I had met some 400km's down the road. We sat up to watch a movie and I was treated to a few glasses of wine. It was a great way to unwind. My next day was a scheduled rest day, so it was time to soak up the Ningaloo Reef for the first time...

Carnarvon

After a handy departure time of 6.30am on the 18/5 from the Hamelin Pool Caravan Park (feeling a bit guilty about both the price $15, and another short day) I traded my key deposit for three chocolate bars (healthy breakfast) in the office. My bottom was particularly sore, and by the time I arrived at the Overlander Roadhouse in the heat of the mid-day sun, my shorts were once again full of blood.
I parked my bike in the shade and ordered a roast-roll with gravy, chips and a cold drink. I needed the fuel if I was to reach my destination within this outback oven. As I sat to eat passing people stopped to ask why anybody would bother to ride in such heat. In fact I drew quite an audience of people burning with questions and I found myself answering to the group rather than individually. I felt a little embarrassed.
After my time in the spot-light I was ready to hop back on the saddle to push into the horizon. I was headed to the Wooramel Roadhouse where I had been told to ask about work at a nearby station. However the work had already been snapped up so I wandered back to the roadhouse to check into the caravan park.
However, after paying a hefty fee of $20, I discovered a caravan park that offered no fresh water (so I had to pay an extra $30 to fill my bottles), no power anywhere in the park despite a noisy generator that grumbled late into the night, no phone reception or even a pay phone, one shower and toilet (same room) for ALL guests to share, grumpy staff working in the shop, and finally a restaurant that closed hours early for no obvious reason - resulting in a dinnerless night for my stomach after having peddled 122km's in the heat. After bending many pegs trying to erect my tent, I re-packed to bang on the shop door to ask in a semi-polite manner to have my money back. A bush on the side of the road seemed to glow with five-star appeal after leaving the Wooramel hole.
From Wooramel it was 125km's into the town of Carnarvon. The ride was mentally challenging in the open country, but I arrived in good time. After a call to my parents I was off to Coral Coastal Park to check in. I found it a little pricey, but the amenities were the best I had yet found, and the people were very friendly. I spent a few hours in Owen and Bev's caravan (a lovely couple who spoilt me rotten) before heading to the pub to watch the Tigers Vs Bombers game. The pub was alive and I enjoyed the atmosphere whilst talking to some locals, Ryan and Tom. They were about my age, and we had a good time talking before I retired early for some much needed slumber.
The next day was an obligated rest day whilst I waited for the sport shop to open (being sunday). The bearings within my trailer wheel were nearing their end, and I needed to replace them before attempting the long road ahead. So I spent the day walking down the one mile jetty ($4) to see the mangroves and incredible fish life, and lounging around the caravan park talking to fellow travellers.
After dropping the bike into the bike shop to receive the usual story that it would take two days to repair, I was beginning to feel a little stale, and anxious to move on.
I was however treated to an off-road ride in an enormous 4X4 truck that had taken two German adventurers around the world. It was a thrill, and they even bought me a delicious lunch at the pub to top off my day. I can neither pronounce nor spell their names, so shall not try.
But once again I could hear the road calling...

Update!!!

 Greetings readers.

I am sincerely sorry for allowing this blog to fall so far behind my bike and the journey. 

I am currently in Exmouth where I have stopped to work at the Caltex Roadhouse to earn some much needed money. I plan on staying around 1 month from now. The work is not enjoyable but living on the Ningaloo Reef within Cape Range National Park is mind-blowing. There are so many activities to occupy my time off. 

In place of pushing the peddles I will invest my energies in bringing this blog up to date and in more detail. I will also upload some photo's when I manage to find a computer that can do so.  

Thanks for reading,
Cheers

Young ladies flee in terror when I walk into the room

Denham / Monkey Mia

After cycling back up the rather rough 4km dirt road out of the Murchison House Station, I set sail once more to the hot breeze and pushed onwards. The winds were hot and dry, and I had to drink water constantly to keep my mouth moist and my voice working. Once or twice when I was particularly parched a car would slow down to ask me a question or two in return for a dry croak and some wild hand gestures. Most people took the hint and offered me a cup of cold water.
It was a Friday night when I rolled into the Billabong Roadhouse. It was late in the evening when I arrived, and the wind had died to reveal  a perfect relaxing temperature. I wrapped my lips around an enormous hamburger and had a cold VB to wash it down. My chef had made the meal extra large with extra love. As it turned out, this Dutch man and his wife who I later met were travelling around the world by bicycle - some 30,000km's. They were working at the roadhouse to replenish their drying funds. He sat with me for an empathetic drink to tell stories of distant lands where the cycling sounded magic. I listened with keen interest and took mental notes of what may one day become my next adventure...
But for now I had to concentrate on the big distance between me and the town of Denham, lying within the world heritage listed shire of Shark Bay. The endemic wildlife, unique coastal formations and famous dolphin populations draw tourists from far and wide. The ride in from the main highway to the national park of Monkey Mia was to add some 300km's to my tally. And none of this 300km's was flat. But I plugged away at the hills to arrive in Denham in reasonable time. My first stop was the Hamelin Station - not very far up the road - but it was great to see this immense station (well over 1,000,000 acres) in full swing. It was time to shear the sheep, and their screams could be heard late into the night. It was a stunning property and the people were lovely, with happy hour (and a few free beers) at 5pm.
I spent one fairly uneventful night in Denham Caravan Park to relax and work on the blog.
Then off to Monkey Mia to see what all the fuss was about.
Monkey Mia was indeed beautiful with a luxury (and surprisingly cheap) resort where I could pitch my tent.
However, after my tent was erected and I was ready to roll, disaster hit.
I was quietly minding my own business a few metres away from my bike when I was savagely robbed. Out of nowhere a small gang of around four emu's raced up to my bike and began to violently turn my basket of food upside-down. My best efforts to drive them away were ignored. And so it came to pass that I played victim to the theft of a $5.80 loaf of bread and three delicious bananas. Flightless heathens.
The rest of the day was spent taking walks around the stunning landscape - camera in hand to capture some of the beauty.
I met a great Pommy guy named Dean who was travelling solo for the remainder of his time in Aus. We watched turtles swimming about from the jetty as the sun set over the red dunes.
The next morning I was up and ready to be at the waters edge by 7.30 for the dolphin feeding. Monkey Mia is special in it's dolphin feeding as the dolphins are wild and it was fantastic to see them so close by their own free will (the will of their stomach).
My last night in the Shark Bay shire was spent at a free camp site called Goulet Bluff. The majestic rocky coast-line was endless and I had my tent right on the beach. Best of all was that I was the only camper for kilometers. It was a truly special feeling that night watching the sunset over 'my' beach. It was one of the most memorable nights of my trip so far.

Kalbarri

                                                            Hawks Head Gorge

                                                         Trying to make a fast getaway!

                                                                     Bush Tucker

After my face resumed its natural pink colour (from the sickly green shade of illness), I was able to climb back onto the bike and continue peddling northward. The passing scenery on the way towards Kalbarri was diverse and interesting. From red desert sands to monocultures of grass-trees. From panoramic ocean views to the unfenced boundless shrubby station farms. It was often changing and very often beautiful.
When I arrived in the small town of Northampton (located at the turn-off to Kalbarri from the highway) wearing the heat of the powerful mid-day sun I was able to eat, fill my water and shoot through. The road ahead was long and hilly into very strong head-winds, and I had a deadline to meet. I had been told to visit the Wagoe Chalets where I could set up my tent with stunning views of the beach for a very reasonable price.
The hills were rolling and the wind relentless, but I pushed on in good spirit. By-passers stopped to offer me food and water. One lady insisted that I take a bag of fruit, a large rock mellon, tins of baked-beans and a bag of tomatoes. I had tried to refuse this over-load with logical reasoning (way too much weight and space!) but she would not listen, insisting that I looked sickly thin. Sadly after her car was nothing more than a dot in the distance I ate what I could and turfed the rock melon and tomatoes into the bushes. An unforgivable waste but I could not haul these added items up and down endless hills.
I had never seen so many caravans on the road. I had conjured pictures of paddocks filled with caravans paying top dollar when I arrived in Kalbarri. I was becoming very excited to arrive.
Eventually I did reach my destination at Wagoe beach and it was as special as the tales that had reached my ears. A stunning sun-set high above a crashing beach from a grassed plateau on which I was the only camper in sight. In addition to this, after reciting the details of my cycling trip, the chap in the office gave me a 'Wagoe Chalets' cap free of charge. I was very pleased with this offering.
From Wagoe beach it was only a short ride into Kalbarri. I woke fresh and enthusiastic to race into this geological and biological oasis. 'Natures window' and the z-bend gorge were famous for their beauty. Sadly I came to learn that the road into both of these attractions was dirt and painfully corrugated. I dared not attempt such roads on my bike. So instead I checked into the busy caravan park and chatted to passing tourists. I had a fantastic site complete with a pick nick table and tall trees surrounding it. But try as I might I could not find any tourists heading into the national park to the destinations I wished to visit. Most people were just old retired folk taking shelter from the complexities of life within their social caravan park bubble. I enjoyed their company all the same.
Due to my disappointment in the inaccessibility of the famed gorges, I decided to book a canoeing tour down the second largest river in W.A: the Murchison River.
The tour was almost full and I was excited to have the chance to meet many more people.
However, as I boarded an awesome off-road bus, I found that the other 10 passengers were all mentally challenged, plus two carers. I have absolutely no problem with spending the day with these enthusiastic, lovely people, but it was an expensive tour, and I found that we spent much of the time covering basic technique, which left very little time on the water. It was a great day none-the -less and we enjoyed some true bush tucker (bacon and egg rolls with baked-beans). The instructor was very informative and I had ample one-on-one time to learn. As one can imagine, the challenged participants had the time of their lives falling out of the canoes and splashing about in the crystal clear water. It was great to see.
My last night (3rd) was spent camping on the Murchison House Station. It was extremely cheap and an amazing experience. I would recommend this accommodation to anyone travelling in the area. Here I met Lee and Steph, a young couple travelling around Australia in search of virgin rock-climbing territory. Lee was incredibly enthusiastic about rock-climbing and Steph fussed over my diet and well-being. They were great people. They were working a few hours each day on the station in return for free accommodation and food. A great way to live close to the gorges begging to be climbed!
The station was alive with animals both farmed and wild, and I had an amazing time camping on the river watching fish jump and birds dive. It had been an amazing experience.
But now the road ahead was long, hot and begging for my blood and sweat. It was time once again to move on.