When I arrived at Penong I was in a very optimistic frame of mind - the start of the Nullarbor had been easy! I was welcomed by the odd landscape view of dozens of wind-mills all clustered together before the town. I was also surprised to find a general store and a pub, two additions to the road-house experience that I did not find again out in the wilderness. So after some light refreshments I decided to take the dirt-road out off the beaten-track to visit the famed surfer village of Cactus Beach. Cactus Beach draws surfers from around the globe with (apparently) rare left-hand breaks, heat, flies, great-white sharks and the opportunity of a remote, relaxed get-away. What I found however, was an uncomfortably corrugated, stony road of 22km's, a sore knee, fading light, scorpions in numbers, clouds of flying ants and finally a deserted beach by nightfall. What paradise! The flying ants were attracted to my head-lamp, and so swarmed around me as I fumbled to erect the tent. Luckily they did not bite, and finally I was left to rest in peace.
In the morning I was up early to pack my gear neatly and take some photos of the beautiful area. Rain clouds were moving-in fast, so it was with great sadness that I rode past the honesty-box without having the time to stop and count out the correct change. My experience had been dismal anyway, and I felt that if the honesty-box were being truly honest, it would have payed compensation for wasting my time.
On the bumpy ride back into town however, the terrible wrath of karma hit hard and my bike refused to go onwards. The rear wheel axle groaning under the weight of my trailer and luggage finally gave way with a clean break. I was left many km's from town with a bike and trailer that were all but dead-weight. Luckily I had packed the original axle for the bike, allowing me to ride without the trailer.
After hiding the bike in a small shed beside a wind-mill, I spent the next few hours carting my trailer and my expensive items of luggage into town wheelbarrow style. It was extremely laborious work, and my arms were shaking as I shuffled slowly along.
After my bike, trailer, gear and myself were all finally back to safety within Penong hours later, I was able to organise the ordering and freight of the parts I needed pretty quickly. I should make note here that every detail of the recovery was organised and overseen by my dad who worked hard to ensure that the parts were correct, ordered and sent in the fastest possible way to reach the remote hole of Penong. He was my life-line to get back in the saddle, and I appreciate the effort he made whilst ensuring me it was no effort at all. Thanks Dad.
It took 6 long, hot, boring days to receive the parts (pretty fast really!), and the grumpy locals made every effort to ensure I would never return, whilst milking money out of me for basic living expenses. I found the local folk to be some of the unhappiest, unfriendly, sour creatures I had ever met. Although I'm sure there must be more than meets the eye.
I was able to return to Cactus beach free of my trailer in this free time, and found snakes to play with and sunsets to photograph (unsuccessfully).
I hereby endeavour quite forcefully, never to return to Penong again, until death do I part.
Top: Cactus Beach
Masters Snake (no cropping, I was bloody close (only mildly venomous!))
Salt lake
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