Kunu-Bloody-Nurra!

I had been looking forward to Kununarra for quite some time. A friend of mine from home - Mark - was working in the diamond mine and had offered me a comfy couch to sleep on.
Unfortunately Mark was not in town during the first night of my stay so I headed to the caravan-park to set up camp. The caravan park was swarming with French and German back-packers who were staying in town to pick the abundant fruit for some pocket money. I talked to some of these characters but once again... the French were a little difficult to socialize with.
Travis, a young traveller I had met on several occasions then came to pick me up in his bus. Basically Travis is travelling around Australia (has been for the last 3odd years!) in an old bus loaded with all the adventure/hobby toys needed to have a great time. Including: rock-climbing gear, a motorbike, a kayak, animal identification books etc. Sounds pretty cool to me. We drove out to a different caravan park where Leigh and Steph (from Kalbarri and Bungle Bungles) were camped. We all had a quiet night chatting over a few cold drinks and generally enjoying the company.
The next morning I was up early ready for a big day.
Steph and Leigh picked me up from my camp and we drove out to a National Park close by called Mirima. This was the site chosen by Leigh to 'bolt' several different routes into the rock for climbing (naughty naughty). As far as passionate people go, I don't think I've ever met anyone as passionate about anything ever before...ever... as Leigh is about rock-climbing.
The track into the climb was not a track at all and I was lead into some beautiful country with old aboriginal markings and winding creeks. The rocks of Mirima resemble those of the Bungle Bungles and everything seemed to glow red in the early morning light. The climb itself looked easy in the hands of Leigh as he raced vertically up the rock. It was a big achievement for Leigh to reach the top without a single mistake, and he was thrilled upon success. Steph also made the climb seem easy advancing steadily up the wall. I however, found it very difficult to negotiate the tiny grips and my 'strong' biking legs suddenly felt clumsy and weak. It was a shambles. But I thoroughly enjoyed myself none-the-less and am very thankful for the opportunity to climb in such stunning scenery.
Next on the agenda was water skiing.
Mark had arrived back in town and due to the warm still evening air he decided to take his boat for a sun-set spin.
We took the wake-board out and the four of us (Mark, his friend, Leigh and myself) took turns until the light ran out completely. Again I felt clumsy on the board and it felt like trying to stay upright standing on a bar of soap. For a stupid, fleeting second I thought I had snapped my spine in two when I crashed hard on the water surface. "There goes my bike trip!" I thought shortly before the pain subsided. It was an unforgettable evening spent on the water and I thank Mark for his generosity and patience.
Later it was time to go to the pub, and I had a fantastic time with everybody chatting and laughing. We stayed until stumps, and I was relieved to crash at Marks house free of my tent. It had been a big day out, and my body was already starting to ache from using dormant muscles.
In the morning Mark cooked a delicious feast of bacon and eggs, and once more I was back in the saddle.    

                                                                                 Leigh the spider

                                                                               Steph the Gecko

                                                                                All hooves

                                                                            Safe boating practice!

Wyndham (Parry Lagoons)

After leaving the Bungle Bungles, I was up early for a big day. I was going to ride north for the day, and this meant that the wind was being funnelled through the hilly ranges either side of the road helping push me along. The wind was actually helping me!!!
I pushed the peddles for over 10 hours covering more then 220km's for the day. It was hectic but well worth the effort. The scenery was among the best for the entire trip. Hills and mountains stood towering over the road on either side, each a little different from the last. Some were green, some were bare, some were tall, some were small, some were soil, others were exposed rock. I had completely forgotten about the aches and pains of riding and my mental state was soaring.
I finally arrived at a rest stop in the light of a full moon to meet a group of young NSW boys having a good time. We had a chat (and a beer) and I could see it had been a long day for them. They were looking a little hagged. So I set my tent up as far away from them as possible without looking too rude. It soon proved a worthy idea after the huge bon-fire they had raging spilled over the perimeter rocks and sent the surrounding dry grass ablaze. They danced around the embers comically trying to douse the flames - but too late... two of their tents copped a severe melting. Suckers.

The next day was a hilly climb into Wyndham. I had a cold drink and relaxed to look around town on foot. It was a nice quite town dominated by aboriginal people, but I didn't feel the need to spend much time there. So I made the decision to check out the 5 rivers lookout that I had heard so much about. What I hadn't heard was that the incline to the lookout was ridiculous. Bloody caravaner's telling me fibs again!!! So in 35 degree weather I crawled up the road leaving a trail of sweat behind me. It was by far the steepest hill that I had climbed... ever. Perhaps I shouldn't have ignored the sign about leaving caravan's at the bottom. My trailer became an anchor.
When I finally reached the top I found that the view was worth the effort. 5 major rivers could be seen here pouring into the waters of the estuary. I also met my friends Ron and Suzanne at the top which was perfect because they were heading into Parry Lagoons also, which was my destination. Ron and Suzanne were two of the most vibrant, hilarious characters I had ever met. So I flew down the hill and then loaded my bike onto the roof of their 4WD to take me across the rough dirt road.
As we pulled into the lagoon just before sun-set I was blown away by the abundant bird life and beauty of the lively eco-system. Parry Lagoons was a beautiful spot and I highly recommend it to any travellers heading to the Kimberly. A hidden treasure.

                                                                           Whistling Ducks

                                                                            On top of the world!!!

                                                                           Jacana

                                                                              Great Egret

                                                                               Darter

                                                                          Ron & Suzanne
         

Bungle Bungle's (Purnululu National Park)

The Bungle Bungle Ranges (Bungle Bungle's) are a unique rock formation found only within the Purnululu National Park within W.A. The striped 'bee-hive' banding on the ranges have become very iconic to the Kimberly's and amazingly were only discovered by a film crew in 1983.
I was very excited to see this natural wonder with my own eyes, but was faced with nearly 60km's of off-road terrain which was rough rough rough. The road in was windy, narrow, rocky, hilly and corrugated with deep river-crossings... I was going to need a lift for this one...
A rest area called Spring Creek is located a stones throw away from the turn-off to Purnululu N.P on the highway. This is a great area for caravaners to free themselves of their load and head into the park burden free. It therefore made sense that I hang around this area in order to find my ticket in.
It took me one and a half days to secure a ride into the bungles, but eventually after a few subtle hints to an older couple - Ted and Dianne - I was offered a seat for a day trip. I would have liked to stay in the park for a night or two but beggars can't be choosers, and I was lucky to have met such genuine people.
I took a short stroll down the road to watch the sun-set and get some much needed exercise when who should I bump into but Leigh and Steph! Leigh and Steph are the couple I had met at Kalbarri many months before. It was great to see them again so unexpectedly and I enjoyed their energy and enthusiasm when talking about the Bungle Bungles. They had enjoyed their time. When I arrived back at my bike later on I found that they had left a bag of food goodies to surprise me. Amazing.
The night before I was Bungle Bungle bound, at Spring Creek rest area I was once more spoiled rotten. Let me set the scene for you...
The sun had set and darkness was falling around the camp grounds. The air was warm and still, and the busy rest area was alive with the murmuring of neighbours mingling and cooking dinner. I was having a quiet beer with the neighbours to the right of my tent, Greg and Margaret. Greg and I had enjoyed a few beers together and I had watched his peculiar mannerisms with great interest. We were sitting at two pick-nick tables pushed together for extra space. Hours earlier I had been invited to eat dinner with Gary and Kim, the neighbours to my left. So suddenly dinner was cooked and they came over to the table with roast chicken, carrot, pumpkin, spuds, peas, corn and gravy. Plus a cold beer for me. I awkwardly thanked Greg and Margaret to shift down the table to sit with my 'new' friends to eat. Minutes later the old man travelling with 3 huge feral cats on leashes (who I had chatted to for hours in the morning) came over to the table to give me a beautifully battered fillet of Barramundi with a luke-warm beer. I felt the eyes of my company as I accepted this kind offering with a guilty thanks. Finishing two meals was not going to be a problem after all. To add to this embarrassment Ted arrived soon after to organize the details of our trip into the Bungles, and what should he happen to be carrying? A beer for me. By this stage my beer collection was growing wildly on the table in front of me, and I was feeling like a spoiled, alcoholic adventurer - a very strange mix indeed!

I awoke early in the morning very excited to visit the Bungles, and was also thankful for the opportunity to travel without the labour of pushing peddles.
I cooked myself a big bowl of porridge with honey and chopped banana and washed myself in the clear waters of the creek.
I had my head hung out of the 4WD window like an excited dog as we sped through stunning scenery and wild river-crossings. With Ted and Dianne's friends travelling in another vehicle behind us we arrived in the park in excellent time.
Ted wouldn't allow me to pay the national park pass - his generosity was/is inspiring. As we drove along, suddenly the hills gave way to bizarre formations the like I had never seen before. It was mind-blowing to be immersed in the alien formations all around me. I felt like I had entered a Mario game on the original Nintendo.
We then spent the day walking down tracks to view golden chasms, walking up to high look-outs, and getting lost in the matrix of bee-hive domes. It was just magic.
Sadly it was during the mid-day sun, and my photos were mostly burnt out.
After a bit of road-rage by Ted on the drive home, 'the cat-man' had a cold beer waiting for me and so I sat with this lonely old man for a chat and watched the sun-set once more. It was a relaxing end to a busy, yet incredible days adventure.

              

Halls Creek

After leaving Fitzroy Crossing I began the push towards Halls Creek, some 280km's. My first day of 96km's lead me to a beautiful camp site right on the edge of the Ngumban Cliffs. There I could unwind on a perfectly still, warm evening to watch the sun-set over the distant horizon.
The next days riding led me to a very busy camp site called Mary Pool. Situated on the drying Mary River, this spot was great for bird life and I even had a run in with a wild pig. That night I was treated to home-made pizza cooked in a camp-oven accompanied by a few cold beers - courtesy of Marica and David, a lovely couple travelling in a huge shiny caravan.
After finally arriving in Halls Creek the next day I decided to take two rest days in order to catch up with Grant - the cyclist travelling in the opposite direction who had invited me to stay at his place what feels like a lifetime ago. I was also hoping to catch up with the aboriginal guys I had met days before. In hindsight I had been naive to believe that they would meet me - they were living on a time-scale of their very own, and so that never happened. I spent the first night at the pub meeting the locals who I found very friendly. They bought me a beer and we talked about gold prospecting for hours on end which was their favourite hobby. It was great to meet these country folk who all had something quirky to bring to the table. For example one man 'Paul' had ridden his horse to the pub, and explained to me that he usually rides one particular horse which is very caring and supportive of his drinking habits, and therefore walks slowly and steadily home without direction from his drunken, usually sleeping passenger. I also found myself engaged in conversation with a young aboriginal station worker. We were talking about dangerous animals in the country which lead to me to tell him that I had been desperately searching for a thorny devil lizard (not dangerous) and that my frustration was drawing to an end - it was nearly time to give up. After a twisted smile and a small giggle he then produced his pet 'Snoop Dog' from his top shirt pocket, which to my utter amazement was a thorny devil in the flesh. What are the chances???
Two days later I met Leo at the caravan park. Leo was gold prospecting out in the bush, but had come back to civilization to rid himself of pesky ticks, and to treat himself after a fruitful trip. He showed me the small chunks of gold with great pride and I had to admire his effort and determination. Leo was a humble man in his early 40's who shared with me stories of his life over most of the day. He spoke with energy and enthusiasm and even supported his stories with hundreds of photos stored within his computer.
A few hours later Grant arrived and the three of us went to the pub for dinner and drinks.
Immersed in the lively atmosphere of a country pub during a rodeo, in the company of two friends that were really making me laugh, I felt happy and alive. We had a few beers and laughed at the cow-boys in their expensive trendy attire.
I felt unsure whether or not to be flattered when a short fat local girl asked me out on a date to - and I quote - "come and shoot rats at the dump this Tuesday night?". I thought I must be playing subject to a silly joke amongst her friends and so played along asking questions about the details of this 'date'. But her story was detailed and plausible - basically; a group of her friends go to the dump each Tuesday in teams to shoot rats, and I was asked to be on her team. What a hoot! But sadly our country romance was not to be, for it was finally time for me to head towards the famous Bungle Bungle Range...

                                                                             The man himself - Grant

                                                                  Rainbow Bee-eater

                                                                         Great scenery for riding!

Derby - Fitzroy Crossing

After a very late start in Derby on the morning of the 20th of July, I set off into headwinds for 103km's  -  I feel compelled to stop here to clear something up. I am worried that this blog may leave readers with a sour aftertaste after all my complaining of head winds, so I will address the issue here. My departure from Broome was officially the beginning of head-wind territory as I head east across the country. Indeed, every single day since Broome I have encountered head winds of varying strength as I sit to write this from the community of Borroloola. Some days I feel happy to bare this burden with pride and strength. Some days I curse the very sky above me and shake my fists at the heavens above. Alas, I chose this route and will suffer the consequences in silence henceforth (at least until the East coast!). Now may the story proceed.

That day of 103km's was of little interest until about one hour before sun-set. I was riding along innocently minding my own business when suddenly two cars pulled up in front of me and deliberately blocked my way. Aboriginal men piled out of the car wearing big smiles and welcoming faces. I could see that they were quite drunk but they seemed harmless enough and so I stopped to talk. They insisted on giving me a lift into Fitzroy Crossing and could not possibly understand why I would prefer to ride. I explained again and again using my hands and legs to illustrate my point. It was quite a hectic conversation as it all seemed to be happening so fast. They were tugging at my bike trying to take it apart to fit it in the truck. I desperately urged them not to do this and eventually they stopped and we all just stood around laughing. Next it was time to drink beer. They would not take no for an answer and truth be told I was happy to take a break with a refreshing 'Emu Export'. We sat in the grass near the road and had a few too many drinks into the sun-set. We exchanged phone numbers and I was invited to stay with them in Halls Creek. When they finally drove away it was almost dark so I was forced to find a make-shift camp spot. So I roamed deep into the bush and found a giant hollowed-out boab tree big enough for me to stretch out in. This was my accommodation for the night, and it was magic!!! Sadly the entire stretch between Derby and Fitzroy Crossing was spent with a dead camera battery so I missed out on a priceless shot. Bummer. I will post some relevant photo's anyhow.

The next day into Fitzroy Crossing was 160km's of physical strain. Although I was very well prepared mentally and felt happy for the most part. I arrived in the dark, but luckily found a great caravan park with a restaurant and bar with live music. I sat back with a pizza and a beer after a hard day and felt my thighs ache the night away. 

The next day was a rest day, so I took the opportunity to look around town (not much to see), and took a trip out to see the beautiful Geikie Gorge. I charged my external batteries, my internal batteries and even treated myself to watch a movie in 'the tin-can' (just a tin shed with chairs, rats and a projector). 

                                                              Blue-faced Honey Eater

                                          Bush tucker. Boab fruit. Not. Very. Nice...

        

To Derby, from Derby, back to Derby, away from Derby...again...

I awoke in Broome on the day of my departure to the devastating realisation that Tim's dog Ernie had desired my muesli-bars a little more than I did. Unfortunately they were enclosed within the pocket of my camel-bak (water container) and he had ripped through it to get at the goodies within. Bummer.
The ride into Derby was uneventful, however the sudden appearance of Boab trees were a much appreciated addition to the scenery. Each tree seemed to hold its own character, size and history. Like old gnarly men after a life time of hard work.
I had decided that it was time to proceed to the next level in difficulty by attempting a section of the famed Gibb River Rd. This meant dirt, corrugations, river-crossings and wild country. I was very excited by this. So I made my way to the visitors centre where a chorus of voices condemned the idea and told me it was not possible with my set-up. The problem with telling someone they can't do something is that they then have to. So I set out to prove them wrong... and then returned days later hanging my head in shame...
To be honest the road condition was not so bad. Passing cars sent up a wall of thick dust, and the corrugations kept my speed to a minimum, but I was prepared for this and plodded along as best I could. The scenery was unique and beautiful, and the feeling of riding a push bike through such remote country was refreshing. I was thoroughly enjoying myself.
But eventually the words of the nay-sayer's ate their way into the very core of my bike and... snap! The trailer was suddenly dragging along the ground and my rear wheel was wobbling. That bloody axle again!!! Luckily I had a spare, but with the road condition forecast to deteriorate and many km's to go, it was time to bite the bullet and head back to Derby.
Luckily I was not too far from Windjana Gorge, and made a side-trip in to experience the stunning landscape. Windjana was simply amazing. I will let the photo's do the talking, because my ramblings could go on forever.
I should mention also that these events took place over many days, and that the camp-spots were awesome.
On my return in Derby I slithered back to the caravan park taking special care to avoid the visitors centre, and then went to the Boab-Inn, the very rough pub in Derby. There I sat with a hard-earned beer to feel sorry for myself and watch the locals behaving badly. It was a relaxing end to a physically and mentally draining failure.
It was time once more to hit the highway.

Broome

After the adventure through the so called desert, it was time to put the bike aside and enjoy the sunny town of Broome.
I can keep this post short, because nothing of particular interest took place, just a nice time to relax.
I arrived in Broome on Thursday the 12/7 just after lunch. I was very lucky indeed to be welcomed into the house of a friend of mine Tim. To be exact, I had only met Tim a few short times back in Melbourne but he offered me a bed to sleep in like a champion. Tim is working at the boarding school for aboriginal children within Broome and being young, witty and healthy he manages to keep them out of too much mischief.
Tim's girlfriend was away visiting home (Germany) when I arrived and Tim was on holidays... Time to have a few beers!
So over the course of two and a half days we went to visit Cable Beach for cold refreshments and I explored town as best I could. Tim cooked delicious meals and his dogs kept us entertained.

It was a nice way to unwind and prepare for the upcoming excitement of the Kimberly. And I was excited!!!