Ningaloo Reef

On the 4/6 I woke excitedly (although a touch late) for my big day exploring the amazing Ningaloo Reef by boat. I had booked a tour to utilise the experience and knowledge of locals who know the reef like their own back-yard. 

After a quick bite at the bakery I hurried over to the dive shop to be on the bus by 6.30am.

After a short ride over to the boat ramp a glass-bottomed boat taxied us out to our big, beautiful boat. First stop was a simple snorkel within the reef to allow the inexperienced to experience and the crew to judge our capabilities. The reef was full of colour and as I was first in I locked eyes with a nice white-tip reef-shark straight up. Great start to the day. We saw some monster sting-rays and fish of every colour. There was even a shy turtle lurking about around us. 

We climbed back to safety for some food and I climbed up to sit with the skipper as we ventured further south down the reef. From up high on the tuna-tower I watched in amazement as a mother Dugong played with her pup, cruising the waves with surprising speed. We had dolphins swimming in our wake and spotted a few unidentified shadows resembling larger, hungry sharks. 

Finally we received confirmation from our spotter-plane that a young female whale-shark had been spotted beyond the breaking reef. This was the call we were waiting for. So we turned tail to crash our way clumsily through the white-wash and out into the deep-blue on the other side.

After finding the shark there was no time wasted in positioning the boat to allow us to jump in and swim along side her. And what an experience! As you can see from the photographs (which were sent to my email from a fellow swimmer with an under-water camera) the whale-shark was just incredible. Only a small shark of 4-5m's, she was graceful in cruising the ocean, seemingly without a worry in the world. Whale-sharks are the largest fish in the ocean (all other whales being mammals) and can grow to some 18m's. But even this small specimen had us gawking in awe. We were joined by schools of barracuda over a metre long and even though we were swimming out in the open far from land, I felt safe and alive. She seemed to enjoy the attention and stayed with us for over an hour before plunging to the depths of the ocean and out of site.

We were all very cold back on the boat after the excitement and a lunch was served over the rising volume of chatter. We sat with our towels around us in amazement as a pod of hump-back whales swam with the boat, breaching in spectacular form in front of the stunning Cape Range. 

After a close look at a BIG tiger-shark and an anxious swim (not far enough away) it was time to call it a day. Being in the sun all day, in and out of the water with energy levels high had drained me and I was glad to set foot on terra-firma at last. 

After a few beers at the pub with two lovely girls Renee and Shannon (who had also been on the boat), I was ready for bed in preparation for an early start at work the following day. The day had been absolute magic, and I will remember it forever. 

                                                       Our beautiful female Whale-Shark

                                                                     Showing off

                                                     ... As she disappeared into the deep...

Exmouth

                                                                  Yardie Creek Gorge

                                                                      A prickly visitor

                                                               Black-footed Rock Wallaby

                                            Hump-Back Whales with a Cape Range back-drop

Exmouth

I stayed in Exmouth for almost one month. Easily obtaining the prestigious position of stock-man at the local service station allowed me to save some much needed funds while exploring a natural wonderland in peak season. The abundant bird life filled the skies and land with busy, noisy life. Beautiful flowers were in bloom, the Ningaloo Reef was being graced by whale-sharks, hump-back whales and manta-rays. Black-Footed Rock wallaby's foraged silently from high rocky ledges within hidden ruby-red gorges. Giant Goanna's, snakes and the mighty Red Kangaroo lay quietly unseen within the grassy scrub as passers drove by without noticing. The land and sea were brimming with life, and I found myself in amongst it all. 

However, in appreciation of the beauty of life, there also came some hurdles for me to deal with. First of all I had no home. My address became the post-office, my kitchen became the bakery, my shelter became a fast-falling tent and the location of my shelter was to swing between caravan parks, Cape Range National Park and the occasional night hidden in the scrub. It was an expensive and unsettled situation and I quickly became tired of  the commotion. 

Work was crap. I hated working out the back where I could not talk to anybody or show growth or initiative. I felt like I was 14 years old again working at KFC following procedures set by dead-end managers for drop-out, burger-flipping kids. I knew that working there was beneficial and that I should be thankful for the opportunity, but I couldn't help but feel that I was taking a step in the wrong direction. Slowly this feeling grew to bring my mood down. So after I had gained sufficient finance and my patience had grown thin enough, I took great pleasure in saying goodbye and stocking my last shelf. I was free once more.

However, during my stay I met many fantastic people and had some great experiences. I will detail a few of the memorable experiences over the next few blogs.

                                                       Mangrove Lungs or Pneumatophores

                                                       Vlamingh Head Lighthouse

                                                              A Shy Sand-Crab

Coral Bay - Exmouth

                                                                  AMAZING!!!

                                                      The Spinifex Termite Mounds

                                                                What a camp spot!

                                                                   Goanna Tracks

                                                                Sturts Desert Pea

I spent a pleasant day in Coral Bay snorkeling on the aquarium-like Ningaloo Reef. There were fish of every colour, squid, reef sharks and more. Although I must admit the water was a little too cold for me. I had tried looking for a job in person, and had made many unsuccessful calls to no avail, so it was time to move on.

After a very slow start to my 80km ride the next day, I finally launched myself into the strong headwinds. It was only 150 odd km's to Exmouth but the winds were really blowing and I decided to split it into two days. Luckily my friends Mark and Terry had left water bottles hiding in the bushes for me to find. They had attached small signs attached to the street signs informing me of the hidden location of the water. It was a small gesture but it really meant alot to me and brightened my day. A big thank you to Mark and Terry, you guys sure kept me laughing.

The scenery along this road was very simple, consisting of spinifex with the occasional bush dotted here and there. Giant termite mounds composed of vibrant red soils stood towering over the plains adding an attractive element to the landscape. 

The down-side to the spinifex plains was that the razor sharp blades made camping impossible and I found it very difficult to find a suitable camp-spot. Eventually I slipped through the fence onto a station property to sleep within a stock-pile site of crushed rock. I tried everywhere to find soft ground in which I could drive a peg in, but the ground  was like cement. After a few bent pegs I decided that my only option was to flatten the top of a rock-pile and camp on this lumpy vantage point. Indeed it was a strange place to sleep. 

The next morning I was up before the sun, and away in good time. With only 71 km's into Exmouth I was there before lunch.

I checked into a caravan park that night which was particularly close to the road. I was stressed that my gear might be pinched or damaged... and sadly my fears were later justified. I was already asleep that night tucked away in my tent when a young, drunk male jumped on me and my tent, resulting in some very bent poles and small tears in the material. Luckily this pole was already snapped and I had a new one arriving in the mail. None-the-less it gave me the fright of a life-time and I was quite ill-tempered. 

But there I was in Exmouth, and I was very motivated to find some work to make some much needed money.  

Blood Sweat and Beers

Osprey

                                             
                                    An orange peel representation of my discomfort in the saddle

'Twas around 8am when I started my journey towards the Minilya Bridge Roadhouse on Tuesday the 22/5. I had packed my tent in the caravan park ready for departure when I was approached by Benjamin and Horhay - my French friends - to say goodbye and good luck. Shortly after this my dutch friend Patrick with his two beautiful German travelling partners ventured over to say goodbye also. I visited the caravan of Owen and Bev to say thank you for their company and kind offerings, and finally the German couple (who had taken me out in their 4X4 truck) for many thanks. It was a very comforting feeling riding away having made some great friends to look out for on the road. So it was with great enthusiasm that I took to the road (after a 'decky's breakfast') to chew up 141km's of road.

The road was generally empty and I found it easy to ride without having to get off the bike in order to address distractions (photo's, travellers, flat tires etc). I had not eaten enough food for lunch however, and my stomach was twisting itself in knots for the last 40 odd km's. But never mind, the roadhouse had delicious meals just waiting to be eaten (I had two of these meals). 

I sat out the front of the roadhouse in the warm air upon sun-set to soak up the peace and relax my tired body. I was soon chatting to a young truck driver who offered me a few chilly beers. The air was still and the sunset lit up the sky over the Minilya River (which was dry). It was the perfect end to a hard, long day in the hot outback. In addition to my seemingly good luck I was able to camp at a rest stop not 500m down the road on the river. It was illegal to camp in the rest stop, but it was dark by the time I set up and I told the Roadhouse (who offered paid camping) that I would come in for breakfast if they didn't blab. Win win. 

I am very quickly learning the importance of a large breakfast: Big breaky = big day in good mind frame. Small/no breaky = horrible day for myself and those around me. 

Coral Bay was my next stop, and I had been very excited to arrive following 5 star reviews.

It was an incredibly windy day on the bike, and I was buffeted around the road like a pinball.  I was at the winds mercy for 101km's. 

I passed a big red sign stating that I was passing into the 'Tropic of Capricorn' which meant little to me so I took a mental note to google it later. Not very important. 

I arrived in Coral Bay around 4pm in a slightly irritated mood. It was expensive, windy and there was nowhere that I could sneak off to in search of a camp spot. None-the-less I checked into the caravan park and found that I was next to some really lovely people that I had met some 400km's down the road. We sat up to watch a movie and I was treated to a few glasses of wine. It was a great way to unwind. My next day was a scheduled rest day, so it was time to soak up the Ningaloo Reef for the first time...

Carnarvon

After a handy departure time of 6.30am on the 18/5 from the Hamelin Pool Caravan Park (feeling a bit guilty about both the price $15, and another short day) I traded my key deposit for three chocolate bars (healthy breakfast) in the office. My bottom was particularly sore, and by the time I arrived at the Overlander Roadhouse in the heat of the mid-day sun, my shorts were once again full of blood.
I parked my bike in the shade and ordered a roast-roll with gravy, chips and a cold drink. I needed the fuel if I was to reach my destination within this outback oven. As I sat to eat passing people stopped to ask why anybody would bother to ride in such heat. In fact I drew quite an audience of people burning with questions and I found myself answering to the group rather than individually. I felt a little embarrassed.
After my time in the spot-light I was ready to hop back on the saddle to push into the horizon. I was headed to the Wooramel Roadhouse where I had been told to ask about work at a nearby station. However the work had already been snapped up so I wandered back to the roadhouse to check into the caravan park.
However, after paying a hefty fee of $20, I discovered a caravan park that offered no fresh water (so I had to pay an extra $30 to fill my bottles), no power anywhere in the park despite a noisy generator that grumbled late into the night, no phone reception or even a pay phone, one shower and toilet (same room) for ALL guests to share, grumpy staff working in the shop, and finally a restaurant that closed hours early for no obvious reason - resulting in a dinnerless night for my stomach after having peddled 122km's in the heat. After bending many pegs trying to erect my tent, I re-packed to bang on the shop door to ask in a semi-polite manner to have my money back. A bush on the side of the road seemed to glow with five-star appeal after leaving the Wooramel hole.
From Wooramel it was 125km's into the town of Carnarvon. The ride was mentally challenging in the open country, but I arrived in good time. After a call to my parents I was off to Coral Coastal Park to check in. I found it a little pricey, but the amenities were the best I had yet found, and the people were very friendly. I spent a few hours in Owen and Bev's caravan (a lovely couple who spoilt me rotten) before heading to the pub to watch the Tigers Vs Bombers game. The pub was alive and I enjoyed the atmosphere whilst talking to some locals, Ryan and Tom. They were about my age, and we had a good time talking before I retired early for some much needed slumber.
The next day was an obligated rest day whilst I waited for the sport shop to open (being sunday). The bearings within my trailer wheel were nearing their end, and I needed to replace them before attempting the long road ahead. So I spent the day walking down the one mile jetty ($4) to see the mangroves and incredible fish life, and lounging around the caravan park talking to fellow travellers.
After dropping the bike into the bike shop to receive the usual story that it would take two days to repair, I was beginning to feel a little stale, and anxious to move on.
I was however treated to an off-road ride in an enormous 4X4 truck that had taken two German adventurers around the world. It was a thrill, and they even bought me a delicious lunch at the pub to top off my day. I can neither pronounce nor spell their names, so shall not try.
But once again I could hear the road calling...

Update!!!

 Greetings readers.

I am sincerely sorry for allowing this blog to fall so far behind my bike and the journey. 

I am currently in Exmouth where I have stopped to work at the Caltex Roadhouse to earn some much needed money. I plan on staying around 1 month from now. The work is not enjoyable but living on the Ningaloo Reef within Cape Range National Park is mind-blowing. There are so many activities to occupy my time off. 

In place of pushing the peddles I will invest my energies in bringing this blog up to date and in more detail. I will also upload some photo's when I manage to find a computer that can do so.  

Thanks for reading,
Cheers

Young ladies flee in terror when I walk into the room